Bikaner, lying in the Thar Desert of Rajasthan, is the Red City of India. Characterized by it’s vibrant deserts and significant forts, Bikaner is nothing less than the blooming beauty of Thar. The multiple forts and palaces reflect the grandeur of the rulers who once lived there, adding to the charm of the city.
My recent trip to Bikaner was quite an eye opener for me as I realised what all this underrated city has to offer. With fewer tourists compared to other cities in Rajasthan, Bikaner is the perfect destination for a relaxing and rejuvenating three day trip.
The Amber Palace so devine,
Bikaner’s beauty through it, truly shines
Bikaner is about 350 Kms from Jaipur. I took a flight to Jaipur from Mumbai and drove to Bikaner. It’s on the NH 11 and there is a 4 lane highway connecting it to Jaipur. Once you cross Sikar which is about 100 kms from Jaipur, the highway is relatively empty and you can easily drive at 100km/Hr. The highway doesn’t have any good food joints after Sikar, being lined with only a few small dhabas/ shops.
All heads in!
We stayed at the Gajner Palace- a hunting lodge of the Maharaja of Bikaner. The property is about 30 kms away from the Bikaner city and is nestled between the banks of 2 lakes. We booked the Historical Suite with a beautiful view of the lakes.
The property is huge and is made of red stone, spreading across 50 acres. The place is well maintained and has a very rustic feel. It offers a safari and a boat ride to spend some quality time by the lake amongst hundreds of parakeets and peacocks roaming about.
Mesmerized by all that our property had to offer, we ended up spending an entire day there concluding it with an excellent lake side dinner. The place was isolated, quiet and serene- away from the everyday hustle – bustle of the city.
The next day, we decided to explore the old city and hired a tuk- tuk. Bikaner is famous for old Havelies, Spicy yet scrumptious snacks called Namkeens and sweet and spongy Rasgullas.
A few of the famous Havelis of Bikaner are the Rampuriya Haveli and Bhawar Nivas Hotel (A Haveli converted into a hotel with fascinating rooms and a nice courtyard). Bhandasar Jain temple ( 15th Century temple), Laxmi Nath temple and Junagarh Fort are other attractions nearby.
Epitome of Rajasthani culture are the Haveli’s of Bikaner,
History and spirituality fills the air.
Few shops located in the old city are around 100 years old. The famous Chunni Lal Tanwar Ji shop of Floral Juices is one shop you just cannot skip over. I can guarantee that the juices there are better than Mala, Mapro or anything else you’ve ever had. The rasgullas from the Chhotu Motu Joshi will never be a hit and a miss. The Agarwal Supari Bhandar shop and Bishen Lal Babu Lal Bhujia are must visit places to enjoy and feast on the local delicacies of the city.
The delicacies of Bikaner one dare not miss out!
The most scrumptious snacks without a doubt.
We found a local guide and Tuk Tuk owner- Ghanshyam Ji who took care of our Old City tour and took us to all the famous shops and hot spots in and around the city. He charged us Rs. 500 for a 5 hour City Tour. It was worth every penny as we explored the city through the eyes of a local. We ended up shopping and filling a bag with all the local eatables.
The contact to reach Ghanshyam ji- +91 9829145362.
Bikaner has 2 underrated spots hidden from the masses –
The Camel Conservation Centre and Jorbeer Vulture Sanctuary.
The Bikaner Camel Conservation Centre is one of its kind, working relentlessly trying to conserve and breed camels and it’s many species. We could see the famous Bikaneri, Jaisalmeri and Kutchi Camels all at one place. If luck favors you, you can witness the young innocent calves playing around mischievously. The place also has a Café serving varieties of delicacies made of camel milk including ice-cream, coffee/tea, pasteurized milk, lassi and curd. These were delicious and are definitely worth trying at least once.
A herd of camels just casually walking on the road!
The Bikaner city has another hidden gem called the Jorbeer Sanctuary, which is India’s only Vulture Conservation Reserve and Asia’s largest vulture site. All the animal carcasses around the Bikaner city are dumped in this area which has made it an attraction for many scavengers all around the world especially vultures, eagles and kites. The place is also a natural habitat for foxes, jackals and the one foot long Spiny Tailed Lizard. With many ferocious dogs, snakes, lizards, Neel Gais, camels, wild boars and deers this place helped us delve deeper into the wilderness of Rajasthan.
A beautiful click of a vulture in the sky,
flapping it’s wings and soaring high!
We availed the services of a local Guide called Dr. Solanki who has an MA, M. Phil and PHD in wildlife and knows the place like the back of his hand. He took us inside the conservation centre in his Bolero and showed us multiple animals within a span of 4 hours. He can be reached on + 91 94144 30948
The place can be a little nauseating as multiple carcasses are dumped all around which may not be a pleasant site to see. There are no washrooms or water facilities. One should visit this place only with a knowledgable guide.
Few precautions:
1. Don’t cycle or don’t go walking in this area, it has hundreds of aggressive dogs, roaming in packs.
2. Carry your own water and go there on an empty stomach as there are no washrooms.
3. Due to soft sand, driving is unadvisable. If you go off the road, make sure your guide is experienced.
4. Carry a nose pack as you may smell the stench of the carcasses from the nearby carcass centre.
The place has no entry ticket and is open till 6 PM but for a better experience, going in the morning is recommended.
Overall Bikaner is definitely worth exploring and is the perfect destination for a quick get-away from the stress of our everyday lives.
Here are a few fun facts about the city of Bikaner
- Bikaner is known as the “Camel Country” and is home to some of the greatest riding camels in the world. It is also noted for having its own distinctive temple dedicated to Karni Mata in Deshnok, known as the Rats Temple, as well as housing one of the largest camel research and breeding farms in the world.
- The Gangaur Festival, Kolyat Fair, Kapil Muni Fair, Karni Mata Fair, etc. are some of the other major events held in Bikaner.
- The area that is now Bikaner was once known as Jangladesh, a desolate wasteland. In 1488 AD, Rao Bika founded the city of Bikaner.
- As one of the driest regions of Rajasthan, Bikaner’s cuisine is primarily composed of dry meals. Such delectable fare includes khata, papad, Gatte ki sabji, mangodi, etc. Also well-known are the Bikaneri Bhujia and Mangodi in Bikaner.
